Perennials - Perennials should be cut back after blooming and reset this month (October). Perennials set now will be established and ready to grow in the spring. Some of the biennials tend to become perennials in our gardens, and occasionally a half-hardy annual lives on and on.

If you have not yet cleaned up all litter or garden trash, be sure it is done this fall. Do not provide a winter home for insect pests.

Chrysanthemums - October is the month of heaviest bloom for this queen of fall flowers. The most important thing to remember is to provide plenty of water for them. They are heavy feeders (which should have been taken care of in September) and heavy drinkers. Visit the fall shows and gardens of chrysanthemums and write down names of varieties you like and try them another year. The fall shows are wonderful places to see the best in the seasonal flowers. Keep a close check on the weather, and before killing frost lift clumps of chrysanthemums and put in the garage or basement for continued bloom. A few may even be potted and kept in the house. An additional month of flowers may be had in this way.

Soil Preparation - In open spaces in the garden, dig the soil deep, adding a little complete fertilizer. Or plant some type of cover crop and turn it under for a green manure. Soil preparation can go on all year in a garden. Just turning the soil will keep it in good tilth.

Miscellaneous - Take cuttings of herbaceous plants like the donkey ears plant and root them for next year’s garden. Many gardeners carry over plants of all kinds like the donkey ears plant simply as rooted cuttings taken during October. The cutting wood should be firm and seasoned, and not soft and succulent, for best results. Plant pansy seeds for transplanting next month. Pansies are the chief source of bloom in many winter gardens. Continue planting the garden lilies started last month.

Visit the countryside and gather seed pods, weeds and flowers for drying. Many interesting materials are available for winter bouquets, and October is the month for collecting and drying them. Divide and replant peonies, or plant new ones, this month.

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A yard full of delphiniums! How does that prospect strike you? I tried such a scheme 10 years on in my city lot, with only a 43-foot frontage, grew so many I literally sent a truckload of them to a trade show for decoration and still had so many left that it was almost impossible to tell any had been cut.

At first I thought my “yard full of delphiniums” idea was going to be a flop. The seedlings came along well enough and plants looked promising. But, by the first of June that year no more than a dozen had flowered. Then I went away for a week.

When I came back, I was flabbergasted. The yard had been transformed. I sat in the car and feasted my eyes on the most gorgeous sight I had even seen row upon row of magnificent bloom. Stalks were 4 to 6 feet high, some as tall as 7 feet, with 36 to 54 inches of bloom. There were blues, purples, mauves, lavenders, whites and bi-colors of every description.

I got out of my car and inspected them in detail. They were so brilliant that people passing by stopped and asked to come in to see them. Next to getting good stock, the important thing is care of it. My garden was thoroughly prepared for the seedlings as they came along. It was spaded and both compost and well rotted cow manure were put in.

Here is where you go to town on fertilizers It doesn’t matter what your soil is - loam, clay or sand - throw away the books and put in all the compost and manure your pocketbook will stand.

Mine was heavy clay soil. I trenched the bed two spades deep, put compost and manure in the trench and covered it with the next spade row of soil. Then, I raked it level and planted the delphiniums 18 inches apart in rows 2 feet apart.

Planting

To set the begonia plants and delphinium plants out, I opened up a hole by taking out a shovelful of topsoil. I next put in a 2-1/4-inch potful of some complete fertilizer such as Vigoro plus another 2-1/4-inch potful of bone meal and mixed this with the soil. Then I put the soil back and opened up a smaller hole for the seedling. Being careful not to break the root ball, I inserted the seedling in the hole and firmed the earth around it with my fingers. Each growing tip or crown was at soil level. Each newly set row of begonia plants and delphinium plants was thoroughly watered.

From then on, it was just ordinary garden culture. I watered when necessary and always in the morning so that foliage would be dry at night. This discourages mildew. I kept weeds hoed out by shallow cultivation. Since I had been careful in properly preparing the soil and planting, little additional care was necessary from then on.

Far too few people realize the significance of the role that farm fertilizer plays in our economy and our existence. Our economy has become so reliant on foreign sources (nearly every American home has an item in it with “MADE IN CHINA” or “SRI LANKA” printed on the backside) that our average citizen’s welfare is in jeopardy. It wouldn’t be practical for our main source of grain and produce to come from another country. This makes farm fertilizer a vital commodity.

Farm fertilizer ensures high yields and a high quality product, and fish emulsion has served this purpose for centuries, never letting the farmer down and always delivering exemplary results.

Fish emulsion has proven itself to be the best farm fertilizer to use. Our farms supply us with the basics we need for survival. Our farms have no choice but to produce a healthy harvest to supply our country with what we need to stay alive. Our suffering economy has been losing jobs and we can’t afford to outsource our food production. We shouldn’t trust our food to anyone else anyway. The farmer’s career is secure as long as fish emulsion is in the equation.

No one can argue that fish emulsion isn’t an exceptional farm fertilizer. Environmentally friendly, chemical free fish emulsion doesn’t harm a thing, unlike those overused synthetic fertilizers. Collectively, we’ve become more health-conscious, trying to erase the years of abuse that we’ve done to our bodies by eating chemically tainted foods. Our unhealthy lifestyles have even created “weight-loss game shows”. We don’t diet anymore, we change the way we eat.

Fish emulsion has also helped the farmer’s pocket book out. When you legitimately sell a 100% organic product, you can demand a higher price and people will pay it, simply because they want only the best to put in their bodies and to feed their families. Everyone benefits when fish emulsion is used for farm fertilizer.

Organic farm fertilizer ensures the safety of the farmer’s final product and can greatly increase profits. It’s a win win situation for all involved. The consumer eats healthy, meaning less trips to the doctor in the long run as health will be better overall for those who eat healthy. (Who really likes paying to go to the doctor, or being sick?) The farmer has peace of mind knowing that he/she is growing the best product possible. Plus they’ll have a few extra bucks, since using fish emulsion for fertilizer will not only demand a higher price, but will deliver a higher yield. Eventually, those higher yields will let the farmer bring the price down, allowing everyone the opportunity to eat healthy.

If we were meant to use chemicals to grow our food, then Mother Nature would have given us chemical mines. So it only makes sense to use what nature intended what Native Americans relied on to keep their population alive. Why use chemicals?

It makes cents and sense to go organic. Cost and safety are both important issues when it comes to farm fertilizer. Synthetic fertilizers are a thing of the past and if you aren’t using fish emulsion on your crops now, then maybe it’s time to switch. The amount of fertilizer it takes to maintain hundreds of acres just multiplies your benefits that much more. Simple math.

The best part of it all is that it harms no one and helps everyone! Using organic farm fertilizer will let our planet still have a leg to stand on when it comes to survival. You can’t go wrong when you grow organic. When we keep our farms producing amazing amounts of food, our precious fuel for our bodies we keep our food industry jobs in our country. The next time you’re faced with the dilemma of what kind of farm fertilizer to buy, don’t let it be a dilemma. Go organic!

Because Aloe plants are made up of 95% water, they are really frost sensitive. If they are grown outdoors in temperate climates, they ought to stay planted in extensive sun, or else light shade. The dirt they are grown in should be moderately fertile, and fast draining. Established plants will endure a lack of water quite well, but for the gain of the plant, H2O ought to be provided.

Because of their reputation, Aloe vera plants are obtainable at nearly all garden shop or garden centers. Unless you reside in an area with an extremely balmy environment, it’s best to leave your Aloe plant in the pot and position it close to a window that gets a lot of sun. You can move the pot to the open air during the summer months.

Aloe vera is a succulent, and as such, retains a considerable amount of water within its foliage and root system. At some stage in the winter months, the plant will become dormant, as a consequence will require very little moisture.

During this cycle watering must be negligible. Let the potmix become totally dry before giving the plant a mug or two of h2o. Throughout the summer months, the soil should be entirely soaked, but then be allowed to dehydrate again before re-watering.

When it comes time to re-pot your Aloes be mindful that that they have a shallow, spreading root structure so select a wide planter, rather than a deep-seated one. Using a planter with a drainage opening, or you will need to lay a 1-2 inch tier of gravel inside the base of the planter to make sure there is adequate drainage.

Utilize a first-class commercial potting blend with extra perlite, granite grit, or coarse sand added. You may possibly also use a packaged ‘cacti mixture’ soil. Fertilize once a year, in the spring with a dilute (half potency), bloom type fertilizer (10-40-10).

Aloes are propagated by re-potting the pups which are formed at the base of older plants, when they are a couple inches tall (or higher). They may also be grown from Aloe seeds.

The Aloe plant has many healing properties, however, I can only talk from my individual experiences. I always make sure I have an Aloe plant witin easy reach of the kitchen. I do this mostly for helping with minor burns. I know if I apply Aloe immediately to my burn with newly picked gel it removes any pain almost immediately. Any subsequent blistering is also kept to a minimum.

I also found Aloe Gel successfully reduced itching from stings, bites in addition to a variety of ’stinging’ flora, such as poison ivy. It is also excellent for the same problems, when they are encountered by your family pet.

To benefit from it medicinally, merely detach a lower leaf from the plant, cut it open and apply the gel to the affected area.

Whether you purchase or grow your transplants, well-grown 6 to 8 week old plants are best for the majority of these vegetables, except celery which should have a longer period of growth. The transplants should appear stalky and well grown showing every sign of receiving ample light. Tomato transplants will be about 6 to 8 inches high. Sometimes these transplants are sold in Hats without separation. Although they may be more expensive, plants grown in flats in individual containers like peat-pots, will transplant best and get off to a quicker start.

Bean seeds do not germinate successfully until the soil has warmed up somewhat. So there is little advantage in starting them too early. They are very tender and easily damaged by frost.

Some transplants benefit by watering them in with a weak fertilizer solution. These are known as starter solutions. Some companies sell some of their high analysis fertilizers in packages specifically for such use. Follow the manufacturers directions in using the fertilizer in this way.

Sweet corn addicts find plenty of varieties to suit their taste in home garden planting. Some prefer the old fashioned strains because of their sweetness and tenderness; others prefer the higher yields of the many hybrid sweet corn varieties available commercially.

Gardeners in the extreme north of the western region, particularly in the higher altitudes, are not quite so fortunate. The season is not long enough to mature these varieties successfully each year. To help fill these needs, earlier maturing kinds have found a place in some seed catalogues.

Glad Planting Time

May is the month to plant gladiolus corms out west. It is well to plant any time after the leaves start coming out on trees and shrubs. You can choose from a variety of best shade trees. This varies from late April until late May, depending on locality. Some plantings may be made at two week intervals up until the last of June to insure blossoms until frost. A better way to get succession of bloom is to select varieties whose blooming dates vary from early to late in the season. In general, smaller size corms bloom later, so planting corms in a variety of sizes will also aid in bloom succession.

Soaking corms in fungicide dips aids in reducing glad diseases. Plant #1 size corms from four to six inches deep (deeper in a light sandy soil) and smaller corms somewhat shallower, according to their size.

Dont plant dahlia tubers until danger of killing frosts is past. Plant the tubers so the eyes or buds are about four inches below the ground level. Make sure, when planting dahlia tubers, that a bud is present at the top of the tuber, otherwise no plant will form. Large clumps can be cut into a number of smaller divisions as long as one makes sure that each division has a bud at the base of the crown.

Backyard landscaping is all about making your surroundings look better. When you do it right, it can almost become a science of planting, growing, constructing, and sculpting the area to look its best. All the elements need to be taken into consideration such as climate, presence or lack of wind, lighting, and overall weather conditions to beautify the areas around your house.

The soil that is in your backyard or garden along with the climate will have an impact on what types of plants and flowers you should use. You might also find out what kinds of pests might be a problem and what you will have to do to fertilize and keep everything pest free and growing. Once you have considered these things you will then be able to start putting together a plan of what you want things to look like.

Designing a garden will allow you to pick from a wide spectrum of colors, shapes and sizes of plants and flowers. There are plants that have purple, yellow, blue, pink, and red colors and of course there are also vines and shrubs that have all sorts of looks. You will also need to decide whither you want your trees and plants to be evergreens where they always stay green or whether you want ones that lose their leave at winter time.

Plants and trees can be chosen for functionality as well as looks. Big shrubs and trees can help shade a house from the sun during the summer and hedges can be grown that serve to provide privacy. Natural walls built of plants and shrubs always seems to look better than a wood fence that will grow old and worn looking over time.

For the landscaping of a backyard, on the other hand, other ideas come into play. The more practical use of space is to be considered in a backyard. Front yards are usually for aesthetics and for show. Backyards are living spaces. In a household with children, the backyard could be landscaped as a mini playground for young kids. A house with no kids and plenty of backyard space might consider a wading pool for a cooler house atmosphere. A young couple as homeowners might want an entertaining area for the occasional get-together with friends and family. A busy homemaker might want an herb or vegetable garden in lieu of the flowering plants.

Do you long for having your property enhanced by a splendid lawn? Sure you do but do you know that green lawns treated by using chemicals can put under risk not only the environment but put your health at risk when the waste material produced by chemicals are washed into underground streams, polluting water that you drink, beside destroying entire ecological systems? Learn here how to avoid all these risk switching to organic lawn care.

Knowing Your Soil For Organic Lawn Care

Each soil requires a different food according to their composition, needs and its pH. Like the skin of a human being, the soil has a pH measurement, test your soil to know it: that determines its acidity or alkalinity. Where is rich in limestone or chalk, is said to be alkaline. Conversely, it is an acid soil. Generally, a pH above 7.0 indicates an alkaline soil, while a pH below 6.5 is acidic.

Once you have tested it, you can use the suitable organic fertilizer.

The problem with organic fertilizer is the bad smell. That makes that many people reject to use but there are products, like granular fertilizer made of treated sewage waste that are safe and comply the regulations needed. They odorless and can provide the elements your soil needs.

Some Organic Fertilizers

Coconut Fiber:is a good fertilizer. It is used with plants that like acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.3) and is available in gardening stores.

Earthworms fertilizer: is one of the most common nutrients.Put a small layer on the land to fertilize and plants grow strong and healthy. Can be found in a specialized center or in any nursery Pesticides.

Pesticides in organic lawn care are not harmful like chemicals pairs. Use diatomic earth, lawn care sand, vinegar, oatmeal, cinnamon powder and other substances which help to reduce and control pests in your lawn.

Weeds

Weeds are the most common factor of worry for lawn care fan. Perennials or not, they are always ready to make themselves comfortable in any place they find available.Control weeds by pulling out by hand, sprinkle them vinegar, corn gluten

Your Switch To Organic Lawn Care

You are ready to make your switch to organic lawn care and if you pay attention, was not that way of caring for lawn and garden the way used by our grandparents? And were their lawns and gardens wonderful and beautiful? Yes, they were and now you can discover again the power of Nature by doing an simple but effective complete lawn care.

There isn’t a one size fits all fertilizer that works on all plants. You must learn how to not only pick the right fertilizer, but also how to use it for your selected plant. Fertilizer is key to maximizing the potential that your flowers and plants have, so learning the basics is necessary.

Before even thinking about adding fertilizer to the soil, be sure that your plant is getting food the natural way- through direct sunlight and plenty of water. You can use all the fertilizer you would like, and still not come out with a good result if you err on the water and sunlight distribution. Each plant has its own schedule and limits that you must learn in order to master gardening them.

Some studies have shown that organic fertilizer has been much more efficient in creating healthy produce, so we know that organic fertilizer is a good way to go. With that said, do know that you do have the option of picking a fertilizer with pesticides or chemicals. It is cheaper choosing that route, but you are hurting the environment and potentially your plants.

Fertilizer can come in different shapes and forms. Liquid fertilizer is more quickly taken in by the plant, whereas granular counterparts will dissolve over time as water is added to the surrounding soil. Liquid forms will typically be applied every couple of weeks, while granular forms will release up to 12 weeks or more. Granular forms are the easiest to use, but experts go with more targeted solutions for more control over what their plants take in.

You wont have to be a chemistry major to understand fertilizer types, but it is good to know the three nutrients that are the most well known. Potassium and phosphorous are important for warding off disease and encouraging roots to grow in strength. Nitrogen is key to making the plant a livelier color and growing up with vigor. Not all plants will require each of these nutrients, and feeding too much of one nutrient to a specific plant can spell disaster if you aren’t careful.

Don’t forget to be safe while handling the fertilizer of choice. Some chemical-based fertilizers will be toxic if eaten or exposed to certain body parts. Always handle fertilizer with gloves and protective gear to prevent any unintended contact. Wash hands thoroughly afterward and follow any other instructions to prevent harm to the local environment. Some events such as erosion make it possible to feed the fertilizer into water sources.

Flowers and plants are great to have as a hobby, but for the serious gardener there is a fine science when it comes to fertilizer. Companies constantly do research and development to try and find the best way to grow the next generation of necessary crops, plants, and scenic greenery.

What in the world is an aerator? Before you can read any more of this article, it is important to clear the air and get a good solid definition. An aerator is a lawn and garden tool that is used to make and keep your lawn and garden healthy. It does this by penetrating the ground and turning the soils to create holes in it which allows water and air to better reach the roots of grass and plants.

What does the lawn aerator do? The aerator has many jobs and you can kind of think of it as a multi-tasked tool. Some of the aerators functions are: 1. Turns soil over and creates holes in it 2. Breaks up thatch (dead grass tissue between the healthy green vegetation and the surface of the soil) 3. Allows oxygen to reach grass and plant roots 4. Allows for more water absorption in soil 5. Loosens soil and creates more space for roots to grow

Lawn and Acre Care Issues Over time, a number of different things can happen to your lawn that can cause it to be unhealthy. For example, many of us have children and guests who walk on our lawns all the time. Sometimes we drive on our lawns accidently when driving in from the grocery store or from work. The more times these kinds of things happen, the more unhealthy your lawn will become over time, as all of these things put pressure on the ground, which suffocate your grass and your soil. In addition, the pressure compacts the soil, making it hard for water, air, and earthworms (which help to fertilize your soil) to reach the soil. Thatch, or dead grass tissue can also form on the surface of your soil which again creates an unhealthy lawn situation. This is exactly where an aerator comes in and helps to get your lawn back into tip top shape.

The Best Way To Use Your Aerator It is important to use your aerator at the right time. You should never use your aerator on grass that is too wet or too dry. The ground should be damp for best results. Because of this, most people choose to use their aerators in the spring or in the fall. Also, use your aerator on a regular basis.

It is also a great time to use your aerator before planting new seeds, like grass, flowers, and other plants. If you do this, you will increase the amount of water, air, and the number of earthworms that reach the roots of your newly planted crops. Earthworms are extremely important to the success of any plant, as they act as a natural fertilizer.

If you use your aerator as suggested in this article, you will surely have a rich, beautiful lawn and garden that you can enjoy for years.

by Dustin Kester

Planting a tree may seem simple at first glance.  You just put it in the ground, right?  Well believe it or not, there is more to it than that.  You could just go out and plant it, but let’s face it -  trees and shrubs can be expensive.  We should do everything we can to maximize the success of these plants.  Follow these step by step instructions and you will give yourself the best chance to grow a full, healthy tree (or shrub) that will last for years to come.

1.  Time and Location

To be successful in your planting venture, you will need to plant your tree at the right time of year.  Fall or spring is the optimal time, with summer being too hot and dry for a young, recently transplanted plant, and winter being a bad idea for obvious reasons.

You will also want to choose a good species of tree for your location.  Do some research.  Find out what trees are native to your area and learn about their growing patterns.  Consider factors like how big a tree will get, how much cleanup it will require in the fall, its resistance to disease and drought, etc.  It may not seem like it, but this can often times be the most important step to your tree planting process.

2.  Buy Your Tree

When you have finally decided on the tree that is right for you, it’s time to buy.  Shop around a bit at your local landscaping shops and nurseries, and ask a lot of questions.  Find a good, healthy looking tree.  Remember - depending on the tree, many may not have leaves during the best times to plant.  But if it does, make sure the leaves are green and not diseased or drooping.

3.  Location (Again)

Now it’s time to choose the best location on your property to plant your newly purchased tree.  Think about how big it will be when it is full grown.  Will it be too close to a sidewalk, a house, or power lines?  Is it in a place where you want some shade?  These are all important things to consider.  Also make sure the place you choose has good drainage and sunlight.

4.  Dig

Tree Planting Diagram

Once you have found the perfect spot, it is time to dig.  Be sure to dig the hole two to three times larger around than the width of the tree.  It is important that your hole is not just big enough to fit the tree.  If the hole you dig is larger, the loose soil surrounding the tree will be easier for the roots to grow into, allowing your tree or shrub to take hold firmly in its new home.

Your hole should also have what is known as a pedestal.  A pedestal is an area of higher soil at the bottom-center of the hole.  this is for the tree to sit on once it is placed in the hole.  Use your shovel to dig a small groove around the pedestal.  This will serve as a place for extra water to pool, so that your tree does not drown.  This is a very important step and crucial to the success of your tree.  When your tree is planted, it should come out of the ground about two to three inches above the soil around it.  Use this as your gauge to know if your hole is deep enough or not.  Finally, soak the bottom and edges of the hole with water.

5.  Place the Tree

Root Matrix

It is finally time to place the tree into the hole, atop the pedestal you just created.  If your tree is wrapped in burlap or potted, now is the time to take it out.  Do not do this step until you are absolutely ready to plant the tree.  Otherwise the roots could dry out.  If you are planting a shrub, it may have a root matrix instead of a root ball.  If this is the case, you will want to break up the bottom of the matrix a bit before you place it in the hole.  This encourages the matrix to grow out into the surrounding soil.  Make sure the height of your plant is correct when you set it in the hole.  The trunk of the plant should be above ground level by two to three inches, but not so high that any roots are exposed above the surface.  This extra height above the surface is also crucial, as it prevents water from pooling around the base of the tree and rotting it.

6.  Fertilize

Now is the time to fertilize your tree.  This is an optional step but is highly encouraged.  When fertilizing your tree, be sure to spread it evenly around the hole, as some plants are better at nutrient transfer than others.  Also, follow the instructions on the package carefully.  Over-fertilizing can cause quick but weak plant growth, or could even burn up parts of your plant.  A slow-release fertilizer is probably the best way to go.

7.  Fill the Hole

Next, we back fill the hole.  If you like, add some composted material at this point.  Use about three quarters of the original soil and a quarter composted material for ordinary trees.  For fruit and nut trees, add two thirds original soil and a third compost.  Don’t have any compost?  Think about starting a compost pile of your own.

8.  Water and Mulch

Water your tree once you are done back filling.  Newly transplanted trees need lots of water, so do not be afraid to give it a good amount.  After all, we took precautions to avoid over watering when we planted.  When watering your tree, it is good to evenly soak the ground with a slow, steady trickle of water.  This is much more effective than a quick splash, and will help your tree to take deep hold with its roots.

Next, add some mulch around your tree.  Mulch keeps weeds down, holds in moisture and provides excellent nutrients for the tree as it decomposes.  Mulch in a circle around the tree all the way out to the drip line (the circumference around the tree where leaves will drip).  Be careful not to mulch too thickly, about one to three inches is all you need.  Also, do not mulch too high around the trunk, just enough to cover the ground there.  Because mulch holds in moisture, too much mulch around the trunk can rot your tree.

Later in the day, water your tree again.  Do this after the ground around the tree has dried out some.  In the coming days and weeks, it is important to water your tree regularly when it does not rain.

9.  Stake Your Tree

Staking your tree is another optional step, but it can be beneficial to trees that are a little flimsy at first.  Stakes can protect them from the wind, and encourage a nice upright growth.  When you stake your tree, be sure not to tie anything too tightly to the tree.  Whatever material you use should also not dig into the bark.

So there you have it.  Follow these steps and you will have a beautiful to your yard for years to come.  Happy landscaping!